Manhattan-based fashion designer Vivek Nagrani casts a critical eye on President Trump’s sense of style:
As I observed the inauguration of President Trump and the subsequent news coverage of his new administration, I noticed I was no longer listening to the words coming out of his mouth. Instead I was fixated on his sense of fashion and the manner in which he wears clothing.
Society, driven by millennials, has become far more casual and laid back in terms of social graces and etiquette. This is acceptable in everyday life. But we are discussing the U.S. Presidency.
Decorum, a respect for the office and those who came before should be expected. The President sets the tone for the country and how the world views the United States and Americans. Sure, it is judgmental, but it is a fact of life that rules apply to dressing—and these rules create a dress “code.”
To many, this may appear to be superficial, but allow me to translate what President Trump’s style sense, or lack thereof, says to me.
First, the most obvious, the length of his necktie. According to traditional rules of dress, the tie should not extend past the middle of the belt buckle. For the modern man, the tie should sit slightly above the belt buckle. Like everything else, the rules do not apply to President Trump.
However, what this tells me is that he has no understanding of the basic rules of dress, which contradicts his commentary about “class” and “luxury.” Men who actually understand class, understand that a flapping tie dangling at the crotch is reserved for men who never learned how to tie a tie.
Could it be that President Trump wants to draw the eyes of the ladies to his crotch and away from his midsection? You know, so he can let them know he wants to grab some p****?
The most rational reason for the long tie is to create an optical illusion of a more balanced looking body. The 1980s power suits that President Trump dons are created to give his rather circular torso a more “V” shape.
His tailor is to be congratulated for attempting the impossible. The heavily padded and wide shoulders in the jacket and the free-flowing half waist are intentional so as to balance his small shoulders with his large mid-section.
The longer tie should make his torso look longer. If you don’t believe me, take a look at his golfing pictures and you can see for yourself.
Ironically, President Trump was reportedly offended by his Press Secretary Sean Spicer’s ill-fitting suit worn at his first press conference. This is comical because Trump himself wears distastefully ill-fitting suits. Unfortunately, most American men tend to wear suits that do not really fit properly.
For many it is the idea that comfort “trumps” style, but it doesn’t have to. It is not President Trump’s suit that speaks to me, but rather his lack of understanding of how to actually wear a suit. From what he has told us, he is the son of a rich man, highly educated and sets the bar when it comes to class and sophistication.
But from what I am seeing, it appears that he has a disdain for wearing a suit, almost as though he has to wear it solely to project a false image of power and class. He often claims his apartment is the pinnacle of elegance.
Again, we have a contradiction. Men who understand etiquette, know when you are standing, your jacket is always buttoned. (When wearing a three button jacket, the middle button is always buttoned while standing. With a two button jacket, the top button is always buttoned while standing. These basic rules of dress may not mean much at first, but they are in place for a reason.)
This long-standing rule of buttoning your jacket when standing is a telltale sign that a man pays attention to details. It is also a sign of respect when you meet someone or walk into a room.
A buttoned jacket reflects a more formal posture and signals that you understand the art of dressing. An open jacket tells me you are assuming our meeting is causal and unimportant. When a man buttons his jacket, it naturally makes his suit fit better which makes for a kinder impression when meeting others or entering a room. It exudes an elegant presence and implies an understanding of style.
When he walked into the White House, President Trump’s jacket was wide open and his tie was flapping away. This was a clear sign that either he has no respect for the people greeting him or for the House he was about to occupy.
Or, perhaps he has no sartorial clue, much like his understanding of the world at large.
So how exactly should Trump be dressing? To begin with, he needs to change his entire wardrobe. Then he needs to have a tailor work on the fit of his suit and shorten the front of his jackets to compensate for his slouching posture.
He could have his trousers re-fitted to give him a cleaner, balanced appearance and update his choice of ties by offering a slimmer, shorter and less shiny option. Next he could get a real hair cut.
And finally, Trump could be taught how to actually wear clothes.
